A treatise on the measurement of the human body and the art of cutting materials for gentlemen's clothes

Art of Catting Materials for Sentlemen's Clothes.

Invented and improved by an experienced Merchant Tailor,

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s^WtLLIAM

CHICAGO, IIjL.

C. F. Lichtner, Book and Job Pynter, 212 Milwaukee Avenue, Chicago, 111.

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Introduction.

For Several Years my thoughts and endeavors have been directed to the invention of a measurement and
an art of cutting, which would suitably attire every human body, according to its shape and to such perfection that
every colleague would be obliged to acknowledge it to be the proper system of cutting, deriving its perfection from
being in strict accordance with the laws of nature.

I had, indeed, to contend with many difficulties, but felt confident, being guided by the laws of nature as far
as connected with this subject, of surmounting them and of arriving at a result of scientific investigation clearly
and irrefutably to be considered as a mathematical proof.

In presenting to the public this new treatise on the art of cutting, my intention is, not to augment the number
of the many manuals of this kind already existing, but to publish a system of measurement, drawing and cutting
based on the rules of Trigonometry.

The precepts of measurement of the human shape require more reflection than the old fashioned mode to
which many still adhere. After having studied the following precepts of measurement of the structure of the
human body, the pupil will be enabled to make a draft on paper of such measurement.

For beginners, i. e. such without practice of cutting, nothing is more dangerous than too much haste; a pro-
ceeding which would make him imagine that he had mastered all difficulties after a few days application. Those
who apply superficially to the appropriation of given rules and methods, will generally find their progress unsatis-
factory and the end aimed at, unattained, because the art of cutting must be studied and not merely learned.

There are many who say that the art of measuring and cutting have made progress like other arts and
sciences, which are perhaps fare less useful and necessary to mankind, but this 1 deny. Up to the present day
every one has been left to his own invention in this respect; and excepting a few theoretical rules which to dish
up before the novice, has been and still is the custom, the art of the practical cutter has not been confined to any
certain rules whatever.

1 have made it my task to lay down rules, based on plastic as well as geometry, for the guidance of the prac-
tical cutter, and which are particularly adapted for extensive business, as they enable a person to cut with ease
and accuracy, according to the measurement somebody else has taken.

In order to keep clear of mistakes in cutting, I have designed at the end of this book a plan according to
which all the measurements of the human body can be put into its several and separate compartments. Tafel I.
Fig. 20.

I flatter myself that after an attentive perusal of this treatise the practical cutter will find it to contain many,
new discovered advantages, and for the beginner it will solve all problems of this art and answer all his require-
ments.

THE AUTHOR.

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THE SHAPE OF THE HUMAN BODY.

The human body, i. e. upper pari of it or trunk, seen from a plastical point of view, appears cither as a
blunted c-one or as a cylinder, howsoever it may be shaped. Imagine a human figure chiseled by a seulptor, cut

in two at the waist, bead and anus chopped oft", put in that condition on a table and the truth of this assertion
will be apparent. Such a trunk can, however, assume three different shapes, namely:

First, That of a blunted, erectly or obliquely standing cone, if belonging to a normally built individual,
whose upper width is larger than his lower width;

SECOND, That of a blunted, erectly or obliquely standing cone, if belonging to a corpulent individual, of
whom the upper width is smaller than the lower;

Third, That of a blunted cylinder, where upper and lower widths are equal. Another shape is not im-
aginable.

Were the human trunk as smooth and level as a blunted cone or cylinder, then it would be just as simple
and easy to construct a covering for it, as it is to fit a cone or cylinder, the necessity of making holes for the
anus being the only difference; and the material intended for the attire of the human trunk would resemble a
square with circular holes cut out for the arms.

As the human trunk, however, shows an irregular surface with projecting and receding parts, it is neces-
sary that other rules besides those that apply to cones merely, should be observed, in order to convert materials
naturally even into a covering for an uneven trunk. It is therefore requisite that the operation of arching or
curving should be directed by the theory of the globular zone and the vertex, for every arch forms part of one
or the other, and the accurate construction of these belongs to the department of Trigonometry. We need not,
however, make use of it any further than necessary or advantageous for our purpose, nor further than its appli-
cation would serve to solve a question at once and in conformity with the results of long experience. But just
for this very reason there arises for ns out of these fragments of Trigonometry and level calculations a separate
branch of this science which applies only to the human body, and which I therefore shall call

BODY MEASURING PRECEPT.

Measuring and what is to be observed in connection with it. Measuring forms the most important part of
what is to be learned and must be executed with the utmost accuracy and care, because the construction of the
draft entirely depends upon it. For that reason the real lengths and widths of the body must be put down in
figures according to the results of these separate measurements, without respect to cut or desired shape; for these
latter belong to the department of the fashion plate, whilst the construction has only the shape of the body for its
object. Once knowing the dimensions of the lengths and widths of the human body and those of its limbs and
members accurately, the lengths and widths of any fashion can be given with the same accuracy and certainty
as if the body was to be clothed in tightly fitting garments.

It is therefore advisable to observe strictly the principles laid down in these and the following paragraphs
in respect to measurement, and to take the whole measure (as given at the end) even, provided the customer
should order a pair of pantaloons or a vest only. The mode of measuring part of the body is not merely pro-
ductive of ignorance as to its different proportions, but necessitates to take a new measure on every occasion
of a new order being given; which would prove in the end to waste more time than taking the whole measure-
ment at once when the first order was received.

To avoid mistakes the right side ought always to be measured first, and the left side only in case of any
marked difference of formation. The observance of the succession here indicated is desirable also in order not
commit any error in copying out the measurement.

Though in some cases the measuring might be executed with more precision, if the person to be measured
would divest himself of his coat, it might appear indelicate to ask him to do so and embarrass him; wherefore
I have preferred to take the measure over the coat; which however, does not imply that the measure should
not occasionally be taken without a coat and over the vest only. In this latter case proper allowance of mate-
rial must be made for an outer garment when constructing the measure.

In the case of crooked or humpbacked persons, it will become absolutely necessary to measure after the
coat has been taken off, in order to get thoroughly acquainted with the deformities of the body. Frequently
the outer garments for the deformed are constructed, contrary to purpose and logic, and are padded to such an
extent, that taking measure outside all these misplaced improvements would leave one entirely in the dark as
to the real shape of the body to be fitted.

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A TREATISE ONTHE MEASUREMENT or™ H U MAN BODY

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EXPLANATION OF THE EXTRA MEASUREMENTS AND THE DRAFTING OF THEM.

In order to be able to explain simply and briefly the main rules of measurements here indicated, it was
necessary to omit such of them as used only in a certain few cases. These are the gaiters or coverings for the
calf of the leg. These measurements are only to be taken when really needed, and put down extra in accord-
ance with the following rules: Width of the bend of the knee (hough) measured round the thinnest part of the
knee joint. Width of the calf, measured round the highest part of the calf. Width of the ankle, close above
the ankle. Width of the heel, to be measured circularly round the heel of the boot and the ankle joint.

EXPLANATION OF THE PROPORTIONAL CONSTRUCTION OF THE PATTERN DRAWING.

All the drafts belonging to this treatise are executed according to the 7 times (seven times) reduced inch
measure. This being understood, no difficulty can arise at the cutting. In explaining this construction, we
will have to ask ourselves: the compliance with which conditions is necessary to set down the pattern draft of
the bodily attire as proportional or normal? Normal denotes regularity of natural construction unchecked by
disturbing influences. Proportional again is any part of a whole, which, when compared with the whole, has
all the requisites of shape and size. Are these conditions united in the external construction of a human body,
the latter may be called normally proportioned. A well built person as well, as a corpulent one, can possess the
requirements.

By what can we reorganize, whether and when these conditions exist in the construction of a draft for the
attire of the human body? Answer: AVhen the joining is simple and harmonious to such a degree, that the
whole can be put together with separate but equal parts without marring the impression of harmony, like a
square that can be changed into a triangle by simply drawing a diagonal line.

CONSTRUCTION FOR THE ABNORMAL HUMAN BODY,

which has been checked in its growth, disarranged and afflicted with a hump. The designing and making up
of a dress for such an individual forms undoubtedly the most difficult part of tailoring; they are, nevertheless,
subjected to the same rules that apply to other jjarts of the body, t. e. Trigonometry, as shown in the annexed
drafts. If, for the promotion of our investigation, we observe a humpbacked person closer, causing to take off
his coat, we will clearly find, that we have to deal with two different halves of the body, each of which must
be measured and constructed independently of the other. To cover and hide as much as in our power these
deformities, must be our chief aim. This can be done by means of a judicious padding of the receding half,
facilitated by the difference in the given measures of the lining and of the outside material.

CONSTRUCTION TO RIGHTLY CLOTHE THE HUMAN BODY AND TO DRAFT
ACCORDING TO A GIVEN MEASUREMENT.

Before commencing to draft, I wish to observe that every cutter ought to well look at the human shape
which he is about to measure, in order to ascertain, what build it belongs to. There are bodies which are
broadly built and of which the back therefore is broader than it normally ought. The breadth of the back
of a normally grown individual amounts always to one fifth of the whole upper width.

Noting down the measurement, the kind of build to be dealt with, i. e., whether normal breath of back,
humpbacked, rounded, or bent in back, and there will be but little difficulty to draw a correct conclusion as
to the outlines of the human shape we are to fit.

The original draft must be made on paper and used for a pattern to mark the material for cutting. Paper
is cheaper than the most inferior stuff and is better adapted for cutting. The back pieces are to be executed
first in every draft, according to the shape of the body. There are bodies of which the back breadth is more
than x5 of the upper width, altough straightly built: these are the broad built trunks. Respecting the different
other shapes of bodies, what is said of the back forming the fifth part of the upper width, holds good. In the
event of a rounded back, the additional width can be allowed for by going beyond the back seam; and dealing
with a bent in back, which forms less than 5 of the upper width, the back piece is to be hollowed at the middle
in order to conform with the measure.

HERE FOLLOWS A MEASURE FOR DIAGRAM 5, 6, 7, 8 and 9.

Length of the back 17£ inches, prolongation lj- inches. Length of the skirt 32. Position of the arm \\\.
Breadth of the natural waist 8J. Side length 8 \. Back bust-length 20£. Front bust-length 21. Height of
the shoulder 32. Breadth of the chest 10£. Breadth of the back 1h Length of elbow 21. Arm length 32.
Circumference of the arm hole 17. Width of the fist 11. Large upper width 3S.V. Upper Width 36$. Waist
width 32. Width round the hips 35. Width of the seat 37-A. Width ot the hollow of the gorge 17A.

Firstly, Previous to drafting, the whole upper width is to be divided into 5 parts, 1 into 3 parts, $ again
into 5 parts. These divisions are the normal proportions of the width of the back and the prominences at
the neck.

Secondly, The position of the arm amounts to 1H inches; the width of the natural waist 8i inches; 8£
deducted from ll£ leaves 8£. Tliese divided into halves lij, again divided into thirds >' „.

Draw a square in proportion to the length of the back and the upper width; commence at a (length of the
back) at the perpendicular line of the square, and mark 17.V inches t to /. From t to n 1$. Mark at the same
time the width of the waist according to fashion. From there to r mark u . Draw a line from a to t upon the
point n; from a to b £, to /; I , now put the length of the hack I7i to t, mark the side-length 8 J (d to //) divided
into halves, and again divided into thirds. From d to h i o; from d to oo %. Draw now from the perpendicu-
lar line horizontal lines, then put the back breadth to d, dd also to oo,cc. Draw lines at the points as marked
on the pattern draft; draw a becoming shape of the shoulder at the hollow of the gorge, side seam, and the
back part; divide the shoulder seam at the back part into 3 parts, name the points: the first f z, the second /'.
Now put the position of the arm on d. To ff are ll£ inches, to m (width of the chest) 8J. Draw a perpendic-
ular line at the position of the arm ff to the waist line/f"; from there to U \ upper width. Draw a line from V
to m — perpendicularly ^ of the breadth of the shoulder in oblique direction; from the position of the arm f z
to h is the situation of the hollow of the gorge of the front part. Put h to h at the front part; the front bust-
length measure in oblique direction downward to the waist atjf, as shown at a in the back piece, topmost
across the arching down to the waist atjf', deducting the seams; put on the back-bust-length measure from the
position of the arm ff to h and a, divided into 5 parts. From a to i 26, is the depth of the shoulder; 2 l z is
the depth of the hollow of the gorge, 1R to shape the armhole at the muscle V. From dd to^f' in three parts, ^
part from dd to e; draw a perpendicular line, put the measure of the width of the natural waist on n, deduct
the scams at the back and side pieces and measure on to the point ff. As much as the material still is too
wide, so much must be drawn in at e, the width of the shoulder at the back piece goes with the width of the
hollow of the gorge h. Draw a line to the depth of the shoulder; put on the measure of the shoulder height 32
inches at ff down at the waist, draw it to the position of the arm, past it to /"front part and /back part width
of the shoulder on to n down at the back part. Draft the necessary height of the shoulder according to the
measure. If a broader shoulder is wanted, it must come higher up at the back part and in the same degree be
shortened in front. Shape the back and the front parts according to the pattern draft. The place and length
of the "sucon", the width of the chest from ff to m to be divided into halves; the waist line from ff to u to be
divided into 4 "parts; \ of the latter to be marked at/f to u, where a line is drawn on £ and J. The side length
is to be divided into halves. Then put on the width of the waist 32. As much as is marked off by the draft
from ff to u (the greater width of the hip measure compared to the material), so much is to be drawn in at the
locality of the hip point. Whether fly- or flap-fronted is determined by fashion. All the different trunks are
drafted in conformity with this diagram.

THE CONSTRUCTION OF THE FROCK AND DRESS COAT SKIRT. DIAG. 8.

The skirt of the coat, this seemingly so unimportant part of the manly attire, forms, as it were, the baro-
meter of the body; for, not only the outline of the wdiole body are affected by its fit, but the changes of fashion,
too, are most visibly marked in it : the correct dressing of the trunk depends on its width and shape. The
width of the seat is the largest circumference of the lower body, and is therefore as important as the upper
width in the measurement of the trunk.

Cutting theories even of the present day do not attach much importance to the widths of hips and seat, and
treat consequently the measuring of the whole body as superfluous. Bragging ignoramusses, still adhering to
this theory of neglect, will say: "For such a miserable build a well fitting coat cannot be made." Whoever
says so, does certainly not know how to make one! The skirts are usually drafted quite independently of the
front parts. This is a wrong practice; for, as the side seam cannot be drafted correctly without putting on the
back pieces, so the skirt cannot be constructed without putting on the front parts, especially as the narrow
skirt requires the most attention. Diagram 8.

THE POSITION POINTS OF THE FROCK AND DRESS COAT SKIRTS.

Drawr a perpendicular and a horizontal line. At the perpendicular line the lengths are marked; at the
horizontal first: the width of the hips, then the width of the seat at the width of the hips. From the back
pieces deduction is made proportionally, then the front piece is put on and the side part to the back; thus the
skirt is formed. If a wider skirt is wanted, it must be drafted higher at the back going beyond the line; by
this mode a wide skirt is obtained. In respect to the skirt of a dress coat the same rules that apply to a nar-
row skirted frock coat hold good.

The front cut is directed by prevailing fashion. Diagram 8.

THE CONSTRUCTION OF THE SLEEVE.

The arms, too, call for a well fitting covering which looks becoming in any position of the arm. The
length of the arm down to the elbow, down to the wrist ; the circumference of the armhole, width of the fist.
The circumference of the armhole divide into |, into 4 parts, into 16 parts, into 32 parts.

RESPECTING MEASUREMENT.

Previous to measuring, the attire of the customer is to be adjusted as much as practicable. The pantaloons
must not hang down at the hips, and the coat or dress coat must be buttoned, but not in any way disarranged.
Measuring over a coat made of thick material ought to be avoided. Most suitable for this purpose are either a
cloth coat or dress coat, even if not altogether fitting; because, by putting on the measuring belt, the basis for
measurement will be formed nevertheless. It is, of course, necessary that in any such a ease greater care must
be used than would be required in the case of a well fitting coat.

Be careful also, that the person to be measured puts himself into his customary posture, because the fit of
clothes depends entirely upon the measurement and the position in which it was taken. Anybody being meas-
ured whilst assuming a negligent posture cannot expect his clothes to fit when tried on before a mirror in an
upright posture. The same will naturally be the result if the measure was taken on a person straightening
himself too much; the clothes, when made up according to the measure thus taken, will not allow of any easy-
posture or motion.

Let the person to be measured stand perfectly at his ease without, however, dropping into a negligent
posture. This done, put on the waist belt in such a manner, that the middle division of it touches the spine;
run the two ends of the belt round the waist close over the hips and encircling the waist. After this. is done,
take the two ends of the belt into the left hand, draw them tight and change position from behind the person
measured to the front without slackening the belt. Then with the right hand put the end of the belt without a
hook underneath the one with a hook and fasten the belt by hooking it. Should the middle division mentioned
before have been disarranged during the operation, draw it to its former place. Then mark the place of the
top of the centre seam and depth of the arms at front muscle of each arm.

Measuring in general must be executed accurately and tightly-; for additional width as required for com-
fort or by fashion, can be allowed for at the cutting. It must, however, be borne in mind that the condition of
a really comfortable armhole depends on accuracy of cut more than on width: far the widest armhole can cause
inconvenience if it be misplaced.

Should the person measured wish his clothes for the sake of comfort to be made up in a style deviating
from the general rule, a memorandum of this is to be made and added to the measurement, in order to be re-
minded of it when cutting.

Measuring must be practised until it can be done without clumsiness, but with ease and firmness, elegance
and celerity. To avoid keeping a customer waiting longer than absolutely necessary, it is advisable to have
somebody at hand for the purpose of putting down on paper the measures which are being taken. This mode
saves much time and allowes of greater accuracy. The measuring and drafting can be executed with an inch
or centimeter measure.

1. MEASURE. BACK LENGTH INCLUDING PROLONGATION AND SKIRT-LENGTH.

From the top of the centre seam down to middle division of the waist belt, back length and prolongation;
from there skirt-length. A humpbacked person measure first the flat side, then over the hump down to middle
division of the belt.

2. MEASURE. POSITION OF THE ARM.

From the chalk mark at the muscle at the arm (in front), draw the measure underneath the arm up to the
highest arch of the shoulder blade on the centre seam of the back.

3. MEASURE. WIDTH OF THE NATURAL WAIST.
From the chalk mark at the hip to middle of the belt in horizontal direction.

4. MEASURE. SIDE-LENGTH.

From the chalk mark at the muscle of the arm down to the prominence of the hip where there is a chalk
mark on the belt.

5. MEASURE. BACK-BUST-LENGTH.

From top of the centre seam in oblique direction across the arch of the shoulder blade down to chalk mark
at the hip, from which mark the measure of width of the natural waist is made.

6. MEASURE. FRONT-BUST-LENGTH.

From the top of centre seam across the shoulder to front in straight direction past the arm, down to the
chalk mark at the hip and waist belt.

7. MEASURE. HEIGHT OF THE SHOULDER.

From middle division of waist belt over arch of the shoulder blade and shoulder in straight direction
down past the arm tg the prominence of the hip at the chalk mark of the belt,

8. MEASURE. BREADTH OF THE CHEST.
From the chalk mark at the arm-muscle in horizontal direction across the chest to the opposite chalk mark
mi arm-muscle which is to be marked.

9. MEASURE. BREADTH OF THE BACK.
From centre seam horizontally to chalk mark at the arm.

10. MEASURE. LENGTH OF THE ELBOW.
Cause the person to be measured to hold his arm in a horizontal direction in such a manner as to form
corners at the hark as well as at the elbow, then measure from the back seam to the elbow.

11. MEASURE. ARM-LENGTH.
From the elbow measure further on to the wrist.

12. MEASURE. CIRCUMFERENCE OF THE ARMHOLE.
Accurately measured around the globe of the arm.

13. MEASURE. WIDTH OF THE FIST.
Tightly measured across the closed fist, i. e. knuckles.

1-1. MEASURE. LARGE UPPER WIDTH.
Circular measure underneath the arms in horizontal direction and touching the highest prominences of
chest and shoulder blade.

15. MEASURE. UPPER WIDTH.

Circular measure. As this upper width is to be taken underneath the coat and over waist coat only in
onlcr tu ascertain the thickness of material and padding of the garment over which measure was taken; parti-
cular attention must be paid that the measure do not slide otf the highest arch of the shoulder blades. The
coat is to be raised across the back as much as requisite for conveniently putting on the measure, which is to
be done as high as practicable. Drawing it thus through underneath the arms, the measure will of itself
assume a horizontal direction and stop without any difficulty at the highest point of the shoulder blade.
Across the chest, the measure must run ecpially horizontal, and in so doing touch the highest points of the chest.

1G. MEASURE. WIDTH OF THE NATURAL WAIST.
Circular measure round the waist closely over the hips. Creases, enlarging the circle, to be avoided;
measure to be taken but moderately tight.

17. MEASURE. WIDTH OF THE HIPS.
Circular measure in horizontal direction over the highest prominence of the hips; to be measured about 2
inches below the waist circle.

18. MEASURE. WIDTH OF THE SEAT.
Circular measure in horizontal direction across the highest point of the seat.

19. MEASURE. FOR A VEST.
From the top of the centre seam commencing, measure the length, and the bosom opening.

20. MEASURE. FOR PANTALOONS. — OUTSIDE LENGTHS.
Side length. Put on the measure at the prominence of the hip as high up as the pants are wished to be
made; note down the height, measure downward to the knee pan, mark the length, keep the measure steady at
the hip and measure freely down to the sole of the foot.

21. MEASURE. INNER LENGTH.
Ascertain whether a tight or a loose fit at the crutch is wanted. Put the measure on accordingly, which
ought to be taken between the fore and middle fingers, and measure down to the sole. Are the pants or
breeches to be used for riding on horseback, let the person measured stand somewhat astride, which posture
will give the required length.

22. MEASURE. WIDTH OF THE WAIST.
Circular measure for pantaloons or breeches underneath the vest.

23. MEASURE. WIDTH OF THE UPPER THIGH, RIGHT AND LEFT.

Circular measure close to the crutch passing underneath the seat in horizontal direction, round the right
thigh. Nothing voluminous must be allowed to remain in the pockets, for it would interfere with the measure.
Then measure the left thigh in precisely the same manner.

24. MEASURE. WIDTH OF THE KNEE AND CALF.
Circular measure over the highest arch of the knee pan, and the largest width of the calf of the leg.

25. MEASURE. WIDTH <"* ~

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PLATE 2 A TREATISE ..a,,™ MEASUREMENT of™ HUMAN BODY wen™ by WILHELN SELLE CHICAGO ILL

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down separately and attended to at the cutting. Besides this, the different constructions of the leg are to be
measured and noted down. Of these, five are to be specially observed: 1st, straight; 2nd, upper high arched and
hollowed in the crutch; 3rd, knock-kneed; 4th, bandy; 5th, bow legged. Diagrams. 57, 58, 59 and 60.

MEASURES OF PANTALOONS. DIAGRAMS 18, 19.

Length of the leg from the prominence of the hips down to the knee 24 inches, whole length 43 inches. In-
ner length of the leg 33 inches; width of the waist 30 inches. Width around the hips 35. Width of the seat 37^.
Width of the right upper tigh 21, left 22. Knee 15. Calf 15^. Width of the foot 18, 1 inch hollowed. The
pattern draft is to be made on paper because it can be done more accurately, and, should the material be striped
or checked, the back pieces can be laid precisely in conformity with the stripes.

THE DRAFT OF THE FRONT PART OF PANTALOONS. DIAGRAM 18.

Draw a perpendicular and a horizontal line; put the measure at a perpendicularly down to the knee c 24.
The whole length 43 inches. From cl to b 33 (inner length of the leg). Divide the widths of waist, hips and
seat each into 4 parts; the width of the upper thigh into 8, into 16, into 24 parts; draw horizontal lines at a, b, c
and d. Then put horizontally £ width of the seat at a to i; from i back to f £ width of the waist. Line b to k f,
to g i; from g back to s * . Width of the upper thigh, line d to c 2g, to ^\6- Draw now a line from e to/> to
the horizontal line; then from m to & a line. Compass from g to p, to k and oo. Draft the crutch; shape the
inner length of the leg from g perpendicularly to the horizontal line e. As that side to which the person dresses
requires more space, it must be drafted wider from the crutch up to the waist proportionally, as the diagram
represents; i width of the hip is accordingly put on from /to b, I and d. Shape the side seam. If the material
has got a galoon (side stripe), the hollowing is to be done a,t the back piece alone. If the pants are to have pleats,
the additional width must be given at the side.

TO DRAFT THE BACK PIECES OF PANTALOONS.

To be commenced by drawing the side line and marking the points a, b, c and d at the length line of the front
part. Take half of the width of the seat, deduct £ width of the waist; the remainder put from a horizontally to I,
which mark. The breadth of the front parts put on d and to m, which mark. Put the line c and i upon m and I;
put also the angle on^> and g; draw a perpendicular line and also a horizontal line to the length of the crutch \ of
the width of the upper thigh, from p across g, mark the amount; from/? to a the amount to I upwards. Cast up
half the width of the hips with addition of the seams at the hips. From the height of the back piece draw a line
to g. If the width of the hips is too large compared with the width of the waist, a "sugon" is to be cut out at the
place indicated in the diagram. Then the back piece of the pants is drafted at the crutch after the front part.
From c to d in 3 parts: 2 parts from c downward; there the width is made out. Draw a line downward, add the
width round the foot from d horizontally, give the widths of the knee and calf. From the crutch seam to c at b
the width of the upper thigh, with addition of the seams in the neighborhood of the seat. The width of the seat
with addition. Shape the back part of the pantaloons as the fashion plate directs. Diagram 19.

In the case of an obnormal shape of the leg, the point where the hollow shows itself, must be ascertained,
and the amount of it deducted and then again added at the opposite side of the bend. If the leg from the knee
downward assumes an oblique position, half the width which the ankles stand apart, is to be added to the outside
length of each leg of the pants. If the legs are constructed abnormally in a reverse way, an operation, reversed
to the former is needed. Diagram 57.

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THE CONSTRUCTION OF GAITERS. REPRESENTED IN DIAGRAM 56.

As long as the gaiter is to be, as high up put the length measure ; mark that point a ; from there to the knee
b, calf c, ankle d, whole length c. At these points draw cross lines : at a, width of the thigh ; at b, width of the
knee; at c, width of the calf; at d, width of the ankle ; at I, width of the heel round the heel of the boot and
the ankle joint I. Divide the measure of the circumference of the ankle joint into 3 parts, into 15 parts, into
30 parts.

Draw now a perpendiclar and a horizontal line ; put on half of the width of the thigh, and mark. From that
mark draw again a perpendicular line downward. Then draw the length measures from a to b, to c, to d and to e.
Note down the distance to d. Draw horizontal lines, & length of the gore, i height of the gore. From d to e
is) is, is- Horizontally the lengths 1B, is- Shape the line round the ankle joint. Put on in oblique direction
from the heel to the instep, half the circumference of the ankle joint ; the widths of the ankle, the calf, the knee
and upper thigh. Then shape the gaiter.

The above rule applies to all kinds of gaiters.

Put the measure on the perpendicular lines, mark a '.,,, to d j. Draw a horizontal line from d to g \, to dd ±;
from <ttltoflu.. Put the compass on,-/ ami dd, draw the globe shape; the remainder according to pattern draft.
The sleeve is drafted conformably to the shape of a normal body, and should, in some cases, a higher shoulder be
wanted, mark off proportionally from the sleeve-globe. Diagram 9.

CONSTRUCTION FOR VESTS.

Vests are drafted after the fashion of Coats; the front part by the back part. In the front part at the hollow
of the gorge, the point of the shoulder comes in with l9 of the hollow of the gorge nearer the neck; and the l
which the fnmt part shoulder is shortened, is added in length down below. At the armhole, too, ', more is cut
out. In respect to the upper width, enlargement of the chest and the seams, the rules of coatcutting apply as
well. All that is to be observed is, that no additional widths need be allowed for buttons and button holes. The
rest is directed by fashion. Diagram 10.

THE CONSTRUCTION OF SACK-GREAT-COATS, CLOAKS OF DIFFERENT KIND

AFTER THE COAT PATTERN.

If the cutter has got the measure of the coat of the person, for whom a sack greatcoat, cloak or cape is to be
made, the only additional measure to be taken is that of the width of the hollow of the gorge over the coatcollar
and the length. As much as the back piece is shown to be wider according to the large upper width, so much is
it to be put higher at the hollow of the gorge. As much as the difference amounts to, between normal width and
the width of the measure for the greatcoat, so much must the shoulder in front come longer, the point of the hollow
of the gorge come nearer to the neck, the position of the arm advanced, and the chest come broader, as diagram
47 and 48 represents.

The breadth of the back piece of an Inverness cloak amounts to i of the large upper width, and ^ of the latter
is the width of the hollow of the gorge at the back piece. As much as the large upper width according to the J5
principle, is larger than the normal width, so much comes the back piece higher at the hollow of the gorge. The
armhole is drafted with and without sleeves.

The half cape is to be put on at the front and at the hollow of the gorge, and while in this position the front
and the gorge is drafted, the width also is given. The front point of the gorge is the point from where the com-
passing is to be executed, as shown by diagram 47.

A half wide cape is to be drafted after the coat pattern. The breadth of the back piece amounts to \ of the
large upper width, and .',- of the latter again is the width of the hollow of the gorge at the back piece. If the cape
is not to have a great width, the front and the back parts come wider apart at the hollow of the gorge. The
triangle formed between the front and the back pieces at the gorge, is divided into halves, and a line is marked in
the middle of it which is prolonged upwards till a short blunt triangle is formed, as represented by diagram 54.
From the upper point of that triangle the compassing of the length must be executed.

As to cloakcapes, their back part length must be marked. This done, divide the width of the hollow of the
gorge into 6 parts. From a to b I, to c I; from b perpendicularly to d I; from d horizontally Jl8. From there
compass to the indicated lengths. Draft hollow of the gorge according to the front part of the cloak. There are
two different drafts as represented by diagram 55.

CONSTRUCTION OF PALETOT WITH CAPE FORMING THE SLEEVES.

REPRESENTED BY DIAGRAM 49 AND 50.

This paletot is constructed after the coat pattern and has an upper width of 29 inches. It must be observed
that the breadth of the back amounts to i of the upper width and that it comes higher up at the hollow of the
gorge. The draft of this coat gives the widths and waist-lengths.

The length of the cape then is marked, the back piece put on, the position of the shoulder drafted, and the
front part laid on in front. The necessary width can be added at the globe of the arm and in front. From the
point of the gorge at the back the compassing is to be executed.

CONSTRUCTION OF THE PANTALOONS.
Just as varied as the shapes of the human trunks, are the legs we have to clothe: the width of the waist, the
hips, the seat, upper thigh, knee, calf and the foot, present frequently a shape diviating in many respects from
what we have called normal proportions. Without paying close attention to these deviations, a well fitting pair of
pantaloons cannot be drafted. An accurate measure of all the points of the leg, besides the length measure, is
necessary in order to know their proportions. All the different measures for pantaloons are to be taken in the
same way and as tightly as the measure of the waist, because the drafting depends entirely upon this accuracy.
The requirements of fashion are represented by the fashion plates;— and the wishes of the customer can be put

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